This is a short video of Primrose Hill, one of the best places in London for a view of the city.

One of the things we’ve loved the most about living in London is exploring all the places that may not always be on the tourist path and Primrose Hill is definitely one of those places. We shot this earlier this year as winter turned to Spring and the crowds had still not returned to most of the city due to the pandemic.

From the top of Primrose Hill you get a wonderful view of how modern London skyscrapers collide with the surrounding landscape and Victorian-era buildings. It really is a sight to behold.

Gear used

• Camera - Fuji X-T4

• Lens - SLR Magic MicrPrime Cine 50mm T1.2 Filter - SLR Magic Variable ND

• All handheld with a Tilta cage and Smallrig side handle.

• Shot in FLog and edited and graded in Adobe PremierePro, with 8mm grain added.

Berlin was overwhelming in the greatest of ways. We arrived in the city during the weeklong festivities for the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall (30 Jahre Mauerfall) and the city was full of people, diplomats, and their motorcades. There was a chill in the damp air, pretty normal for early November in northeastern Germany. We hit the pavement running after dropping our bags off at our hotel in Alexanderplatz, immediately going out for a night walking tour down the Unter den Linden.

The Berliner Dom on our right and the Humboldt Forum on our left were lit up brilliantly against the night as we strolled across Museum Island toward Brandenburger Tor. The street names and buildings I had long read about jumped out at us in vivid color. All the stories from history books came flooding back to my memory as we passed the Berlin State Opera and German History Museum. I could feel the newsreels of Nazi stormtroopers parading down the wide Parisian-inspired avenue, slowly melting into images of protesters in the 1980s rising up against Communist oppression. The strange smell of sulfur wafted against the moonlight as new construction butted heads with East German brutalist architecture. Berlin was cold, determined, and ready for the hordes of visitors.

A video projection on a building in Alexanderplatz recounting the events leading up to the fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9, 1989. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

The TV Tower (Berliner Fernsehturm)

The hotel we stayed at was in the middle of Alexanderplatz. Not exactly the most beautiful place to stay but the central location, ease of transport connections, and stunning view made the Park Inn the perfect resting place. Sitting across from the Berlin TV Tower, the Park Inn by Radisson was built in the late sixties and is still the tallest hotel-only building in Germany. We opted for a city view and woke up every morning to the northeastern side of the TV Tower smiling at us. Like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the TV Tower is best used as a waypoint right in the middle of Berlin. If we ever had trouble finding our way, we could just look up and see what direction the TV Tower was and generally we could find our way back home.

The Berlin TV Tower at night from outside Berlin Alexanderplatz Banhof. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

The view of the TV Tower from its base before heading off on our Fat Tire Bike Tour. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Templehof Airport Tour

One of the highlights of our trip was the 2-hour tour of Templehof Airport, made famous by the Berlin Airlift. The Templehof complex is massive and would take way longer than two hours to explore it all, so the tour picks up the highlights of architecture, history, and intrigue to give you a good look at the massive structure. Towards the end of our tour, we were able to see an underground area that housed all the old aerial reconnaissance film rolls that the Nazi’s had amassed of Europe before the war began. The bunker was subsequently destroyed by fire before the Russians reached Berlin and the burn marks are still visible all over the walls.

Templehof airport. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Templehof Airport terminal. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Templehof Airport tour guide. Taken withe the Fuji X-T3.

Architectural ceiling details inside Templehof Airport terminal. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Berlin in the Morning Sun

On our last full day in Berlin, I decided to head out early for a photo walk along the Unter den Linden to catch the morning sunshine on some of Berlin’s most well-known buildings. The best way to really get a feel for a city is by walking the streets and my Fuji X-T3 was a perfect companion. It’s small size and compact lenses helped to blend into the small morning crowd.

The Berliner Dom in the morning. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

View from the Unter den Linden on a Berlin morning. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Cranes by Monbijoupark. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

The Berlin Wall

To say I was speechless when I first saw the remnants of the Berlin Wall would be a monumental understatement. No other structure in the world has dominated my thoughts more in the past ten years than the Wall and to finally see the few remaining sections in person was awe-inspiring. We spent November 9, walking along the Berlin Wall Memorial along Bernauer Straße before being stopped due to the remembrance events by world leaders such as German Chancellor Angela Merkel and others. We finished the main section of the Memorial on November 10, a much less rainy day.

Walking along the preserved stretch on Bernauer Straße brought to life all the books, movies, and stories I’d read about the brutality that the Wall imposed on people from both sides. The small memorial stones embedded into the sidewalk that remembers people who died jumping from buildings or shot by guards were especially impactful.

The visitors center is a great way to get a concise history of the Wall and to get a birds-eye view of the preserved section of the Wall from their observation deck.

At the Berlin Wall Memorial along Bernauer Straße. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Kim at the Berlin Wall Memorial’s preserved section of the Wall with accompanying death strip. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Poles marking the path of the Berlin Wall along Bernauer Straße. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Piece of the Berlin Wall that is part of the East Side Gallery. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Remnant of the Berlin Wall in front of the Topography of Terror center documenting Nazi atrocities on Niederkirchnerstraße. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Berlin, A Place to Return To

Filled with history, modern structures, amazing food, and plenty of nightlife, Berlin is definitely a place we will be returning to. We didn’t even scratch the surface of the modern Berlin on this trip, choosing instead to focus on the Cold War remnants and main historical sights. With so many beautiful neighborhoods and art installations, we could’ve spent the whole month exploring the German capital city.

One thing we did learn is if you’re planning on visiting the Reichstag and walking up the impressive dome, make sure to book ahead of time and preferably not in the morning. The cold November weather mixed with all the tourists led to most of the glass of the dome being fogged over and hard to see through. It was still impressive, but just a little obstructed. Thankfully, booking a ticket is free.

Kim at the Reichstag dome with a German flag in the background. Taken with the Fuji X-T3.

Heading to Berlin? Check out these five films that will help you get a feel for the city, its history, sights, and sounds!

Good Bye Lenin!

Daniel Brühl gives a wonderful performance in this oddball comedy about the lengths a son will go to protect his mother. Few films have looked at the post-Wall era specifically so Good Bye Lenin! is a must-watch for those interested in the reunification period of Berlin’s history.

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The Bourne Supremacy

While not strictly set in Berlin, 2004’s The Bourne Supremacy features a few action sequences set in the Alexanderplatz area of central Berlin, which happens to be where we are staying during our trip to Berlin.

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The Lives of Others

2006’s The Lives of Others is a gritty look at the surveillance state in East Berlin. Set in 1984, a secret police agent is tasked with watching and reporting on the life of a writer, a task that quickly takes over the agent’s entire life. For those interested in a look at the lives of East Berliners in the late stages of the Cold War, this film is a must.

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Valkyrie

Moving back further in time, Valkyrie tells the story of the failed 1944 assassination and coup attempt by resistance members inside the Nazi party. Tom Cruise leads a mostly British cast (forgive the constantly wrong accents) in an action-packed tale of patriotism and heroism from within the ranks of Hitler’s Nazi establishment.

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Wings of Desire

If you see one film before you go to Berlin, let it be Wim Wenders’ masterpiece Wings of Desire. Featuring a tour de force performance from Bruno Ganz as an angel that becomes fascinated with the human lives he is tasked with watching over, Wings of Desire is a brilliant look at then West Berlin. My personal favorite scene takes place in the Berlin State Library (Staatsbibliothek) as angels Cassiel and Damiel observe West Berliners going about their day. This one can’t be missed.

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What films did we miss? Let us know in the comments below!

Our first big trip as a couple was to New York City in 2014. Neither of us did much research going into it. Each evening, we would look up a yummy-looking coffee shop in a different neighborhood and go from there. This non-plan resulted in great coffee, thousands and steps, and no stand out meals. Can you believe it?! A trip to NYC for many includes excellent food in addition to amazing experiences.

Fast forward to 2016 - Kevin had a conference in Portland, Oregon that ended on Friday, so we decided I would hop on a flight to join him for the final banquet and then we'd spend the weekend there. To safeguard against less-than-blah meals, I did a deep dive into researching all things food and drink in Portland. The result was a three-day whirlwind of amazing eats. As I took notes on my iPhone about what we ate and loved, I titled the list 'Eating in Portland - Aggressively Good.'

I am embarrassed to say that yes, it has taken me three years to write this post. The upside is that we've shared these recommendations with lots of friends who've also had great experiences. So... here goes!

Friday

Happy Hour - Altabira City Tavern at Hotel Eastlund

As conferences often are, Kevin's was hosted at a beautiful hotel. Hotel Eastlund is situated in Portland's fast-growing Lloyd District on the city's East Side. The funky chic decor extends from the lobby to the guest rooms and doesn't stop there.

Photo courtesy of Hotel Eastlund

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Kevin was on an afternoon break from the conference when I arrived, so we decided to check out the hotel's bar and restaurant. We often do this when we arrive in a city to get our bearings, make a plan, and meet a local or two. We were happy to find out that Altabira City Tavern is no simple hotel bar. Floor to ceiling windows and a roof-top patio on the hotel's top floor offer stunning views of the city while their beer-focused menu by chef and restauranteur David Machado offers yummy bites in an upscale yet comfortable atmosphere. Let's remember that I'd just gotten off a plane people.

Saturday

Stumptown Coffee at Ace Hotel

On Saturday morning, we checked out of the beautiful Hotel Eastlund and headed downtown to check into hip Ace Hotel. We stayed in the London Shoreditch location when we got engaged and loved it so much, we couldn't wait to book another stay with the chain.

Kevin and I share many interests, and a top one for both of us is coffee. I enjoyed Stumptown for the first time on that coffee-fueled NYC trip in 2014 and have been head-over-heels ever since. Every location is cozy, and the attention to detail means that every latte will be perfect, no matter where you are. (Read their story here.)

Many Ace Hotel locations have a Stumptown Coffee in them, which is such a treat. You always know that a fantastic pour-over awaits just a short elevator ride away. We suggest the Nitro Cold Brew or a warm mocha. Trust us.

Photo courtesy of Stumptown Coffee

Lunch at Jake's Famous Crawfish

After spending some time wandering in downtown Portland, the group decided on seafood for lunch. Kevin and I live near the Gulf Coast in Texas, so even though we have access to fresh fare, we always jump at the chance for east or west coast fish. That being said, I am not a huge fan of crawfish, so the name didn't exactly draw me in, but one look at the menu and I was hooked! (pun intended) With a gorgeous menu full of seafood and non-seafood options, our entire group was satisfied and stuffed.

Photo courtesy of Jake’s Famous Crawfish

Aperitifs at Multnomah Whisky Library

According to their website, "Multnomah Whisky Library holds an exhaustive collection representing all major, and lesser, styles of distilled spirits known to the modern world." At first glance, MWL seemed open only to members with a couple's membership at $850 a year, but upon closer look, you have an option to purchase a Hall Pass, which allows non-members to make a one-time reservation, perfect for out-of-town visitors like ourselves and the friends we were with.

As you might have picked up, we are book lovers, spending afternoons both while we travel and at home browsing big box book stores and second-hand shops alike, so the library theme was just up our alley. The dim room was lit only by green glass library lamps set along the center of long, dark wooden tables. Booths for bigger groups lined the large room, giving us a great view of everything. Reservations are required, both for members and Hall Pass holders, so the room did have a quiet air about it since no one was allowed to stand at the bar.

Although dinner is available, we focused on the drinks. I opted for a whiskey flight. These aren't set on the menu -- your knowledgable server asks questions about your tastes and price point to help you choose an array of options. The rest of the group ordered a cocktail from their libations menu, which offers a variety of spirits as a base, meeting everyone's taste.

A few moments after we ordered, a vintage library cart outfitted for mixing drinks was wheeled over tableside. The whiskeys I had chosen were presented to me with some information about tasting notes. Then came the fun -- the drinks were mixed in our view with explanations throughout! The service was impeccable and the atmosphere unique, making this stop a memorable one.

If the Hall Pass doesn't fit in your travel budget, don't fret! Just downstairs from the MWL, you'll find The Green Room, which serves casual cocktails and light bites with the same attention to detail in an easygoing atmosphere.

Photo courtesy of Multnomah Whiskey Library

However, you choose to enjoy MWL, with a membership, Hall Pass or in The Green Room, make sure to stop in for a beautiful experience.

Dinner at Saucebox

Whether traveling or at home, we do our best to rely first on recommendations, either from friend's previous trips or (especially) locals, then on what looks good as we walk down the street, and last on online/app resources. So, in the absence of the first two, we turned to Yelp to find a new plan for dinner after our first option was disappointing. (Travel Tip: If you walk into a place and don't like the vibe - find something else!)

As we wandered, hungry and ready to eat, I happened upon Saucebox. Any type of Asian cuisine will always be my first choice, so I called to check availability, and amazingly, they had a table for 6 ready and waiting. Saucebox is a deejay-cafe that entices all of your senses with flavorful food, yummy cocktails, glamorous ambiance, groovy music, and energetic staff.

Photo of Saucebox from Open Table.

Our group opted to order multiple dim sum and small plates to share so everyone could experience lots of flavors. Everything was terrific, but the stand out dish for me was the Tapioca Dumplings, filled with chicken and cilantro served with fish sauce, peanuts and garlic oil. Dear reader, if you go to Saucebox, please, order these. Don't miss out on this magic.

Sunday

Breakfast at Mother's Bistro & Bar

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Mother's is where you go for slow-cooked comfort food the way your great grandmother made it. They make everything from scratch and use the best ingredients available. Although they do serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, we heard that a morning trip was the way to go. With a full bar offering mimosas and bloody mary's (and pretty much anything else you could want) paired with Buttermilk Biscuits with Sausage Gravy or Wild Salmon Hash, you just can't go wrong.

We would love to go back for lunch or dinner, or at least coffee and dessert on our next trip. Homemade strawberry shortcake with fresh, locally-sourced strawberries... yes, please!

Liquid Lunch at The Big Legrowlski

After our gorgeous and giant breakfast at Mother's, no one was in the mood to sit down, so we decided to walk those biscuits off. We walked toward the water and were lucky enough to come upon the Portland Saturday Market. This local open-air market takes place every Saturday and Sunday from March through Christmas Eve. In addition to artisan crafts, there are food-tents-and-trucks-a-plenty, just in case you already need a snack.

The Big Legrowlski's website is simply letting you know what they're about.

BEER. WHITE RUSSIANS. MUSIC.

This intimate music venue and bar offers varied but great experiences each and every time you go. The house band... check. White Russians complete with a count of how many have ever been ordered... check. A great beer selection in a bar with a great vibe... check.

We visited at a random time in the afternoon, so it was near empty, but I can see how this small space can get crowded, especially when they're a live band playing. I have never actually seen The Big Lebowski (eek... I know), but this themed bar is a treat whether you're a fan or not.

Sizzle Pie

After saying goodbye to our sweet friends who joined us in Portland, Kevin and I headed back to Ace Hotel for one of my favorite activities... a nap! Our philosophy of travel is to go at a pace where you're genuinely able to enjoy the place where you are. Sometimes that means a quick dinner and movies in the hotel room. We decided on a three-minute walk to Sizzle Pie for some pizza and garlic knots.

We went with classic pepperoni, or as it's named at Sizzle, the Ace of Spades, but with vegan and veggie options galore, this place is sure to please a crowd!

Monday

Brunch at Kenny and Zuke's Delicatessen

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Let me just begin by saying that Kevin and I still talk about how fantastic the service and homemade everything is at Kenny and Zuke's. With a no-cell-phones-during-dinner policy (and an expectation that they're on silent for the rest of the day) this place aligns with our love of gathering over a meal and being present, even if you're dining solo!

On our first visit (yes, we did go back for breakfast before we flew out the next day) we ordered their legendary house-made pastrami hash with over-easy eggs with fresh baked rye toast and man-oh-man, it lives up to the hype.

The next morning, I opted for Latkes, and Lox and Kevin went for a Pastrami sandwich on a Bagel. You guys, I was floored by everything we tasted here, as well as the kindness of their staff and other patrons. When we revisit Portland, a visit here will be a priority for sure.

Shopping and Ice Cream in the Northwest District

After all the eating, it was time to get out and walk! The Northwest District is a sweet, tree-lined neighborhood full of cute local boutiques and trendy chains that are worth the time. Some highlights for us were Goorin Bros. Hat Company and Will Leather Goods.

Our planned destination was Salt & Straw Ice Cream. During my research for this trip, I was drawn in by their Pots of Gold flavor where they literally hand separate Lucky Charms™ marshmallows from the cereal pieces to create this flavor. We still have not had the chance to try it, so if anyone would like to ship some to us, we'll gladly and gratefully accept!

With their classic and seasonal flavors, there is always something new to try! I opted for Strawberry Honey Balsamic with Black Pepper and Pear with Blue Cheese on a waffle cone while Kevin went for Stumptown Coffee and Bourbon in a cup - he's so responsible that way.

Salt & Straw has locations in Portland, Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diego, Seattle, and Anaheim, and we suggest adding them to your wishlist in all of those cities!

Happy Hour at Clyde Common

We worked up an appetite spending multiple hours in Powell's Books, so we decided to head back to the hotel, which, in addition to a great coffee shop, is connected to a fantastic restaurant called Clyde Common.

Their menu offers both domestic and foreign fare and a vast array of nibbles and drink deals on their daily happy hour menu. We ordered popcorn and a couple of Bourbon Renewals and chatted with the bartenders about their city.

Dinner at Gilda's Italian Restaurant

Gilda's was recommended to us by one of the bartenders as a great place for Italian, which at this point seemed to be the only cuisine we hadn't yet tried. A quick ten-minute stroll got us here, and as luck would have it, they had a table for two available! However, they do suggest making a reservation to ensure space for your party.

Generous portions in a homey and comfortable space made for a glorious last night meal in Portland.

Nightcap at Pepe Le Moko

Another Clyde Common suggestion, Pepe Le Moko also made the list of places we will visit again when we return to Portland. You enter from the street and immediately proceed down a set of narrow stairs to a bunker-like wood-paneled room no wider than I am tall.

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Once my eyes adjusted to the dim lighting, I felt like I was transported to another era - lamp-lit tables, beautiful cocktails and the urge to lean closer to Kevin to whisper our favorite things about our time in Portland together to one another. We loved it.

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Portland feels comfortable and kind, and all our food and drink experiences were in line with that. Let us know if you have other Portland favorites that we should add to our list for our next visit!

There’s no place on earth quite like London. Truth is, it’s such a hard city to capture on film with its diversity of culture, ethnicity, architecture, lifestyle, and more. It’s a city best experienced in person but if you haven’t been, filmmaker Oliver Astrologo does a bang up job of giving you a glimpse.

Filmed over a two-year period, Astrologo calls this “one of the most demanding and challenging projects” of his career. He gets up close and personal with everyday Londoners and really captures the grittiness and the frenetic pace of life in the British capital.

I’ve always admired the attention to detail in Astrologo’s editing, especially his use of myriad cuts and bringing in native audio and sound effects. It really pulls you into the city he’s exploring. He also manages to capture the feeling and uncertainty that exists around Brexit by bringing in current news footage and using bluer, cooler tones that evoke a coldness to the opening sequences.

The simple narrative that is almost hidden throughout the whole film really makes for a satisfying look at life in London.

You can find more of Oliver Astrologo’s work on his Vimeo page here or on his website here. Check out some my personal favorite films of his on Japan here and Venezia here.